Tirana: best months to visit

Tirana, Albanian capital: 600,000 inhabitants, transformed since the end of Enver Hoxha's isolationist communism (1944-1985: Albania was Europe's most closed country, more than today's North Korea, 173,000 paranoid bunkers built). June is my favourite month (9.4/10): 18-28°C, 22% rain, ideal temperatures before the heatwave. July-August drop to 6.9/10 due to heat (20-32°C), but the coast opens (Saranda 4h away, the little-known but beautiful Albanian Riviera). From April to June and September-October are the best compromises. From December to February, expect 3-13°C and 35-39% rain: mild for the Balkans. Highlights: Skanderbeg Square (Sheshi Skënderbej, main square renovated 2017 without cars, statue of the national hero), Et'hem Bey Mosque (18th century, frescoes rare for a mosque), Clock Tower (19th century), Pyramid of Tirana (former Enver Hoxha museum 1988, designed by the dictator's daughter, abandoned then rehabilitated 2023 as a youth/cultural centre), Bunk'Art 1 and Bunk'Art 2 (former Hoxha anti-atomic bunkers turned into museums on communism and persecution, very impressive), House of Leaves (former secret services HQ, surveillance museum), Mount Dajti (15-min cable car, panoramic view over the city, restaurants at altitude). Blloku district (formerly reserved for the communist nomenklatura, now a hipster zone, restaurants, nightlife). Excursions: Krujë 30 min away (Skanderbeg fortress, views), Berat 2h away (UNESCO, "city of a thousand windows"), Albanian Riviera coast 4-5h away (Saranda, Ksamil, Himara — cheap alternative to Croatia). Try tavë kosi, byrek, raki. Direct flight Paris-Tirana in 2h45, among Europe's cheapest capitals.